2 months in Asia

Taiwan's public art

For the past 8 weeks I’ve focused on getting to know this fascinating island, or at least parts of it. I’ve really resisted comparing life in Taipei to life in the States, for fear that I will lapse into homesickness. There is much to appreciate here, but sometimes comparisons are inevitable.

Every Monday when I join the line of folks waiting to separate and dump their garbage , every week when I take my clothing from the clothes line several floors up (no dryer but hey, at least we aren’t washing our clothes in a stream), when I realize that I can’t bake even the simplest of cakes (I have no stove; very few people do) I can’t help but wonder what life would be like here with a few extra “modern” conveniences. Taking public transportation is a great leveler – everyone does it. Walking downtown at 11pm? Completely safe, if you don’t count the taxis cutting corners into crosswalks. The Harvest Moon festival, complete with a 3-day weekend, is coming up. We’re each getting a package of Moon Cakes. Guess that’s the Taiwan equivalent to Mrs. Fields…

Worthless money

I went to the bank to exchange the last of my US dollars and got quite a shock: apparently US currency printed prior to 2003 is worthless here! Seriously? Are you kidding, I say? No, says the pimply kid behind the counter. It’s too old. Too old?!! Who looks at the printing date of the bills in their wallet? No one I know! I wonder what the one Bank of America branch in Taipei will say?

Jade market

Next up, the trek through the Taipei jade market, adjacent to the flower market under a busy overpass. Row after row after ROW of jade, beads, pearls, and all manner of  pretty shiny and carved things.

Jade (and other) Treasures

It’s difficult to know where to look next and after just a few minutes, the sheer volume of  -well – EVERYTHING overwhelming. I take a deep breath and soldier on. I attempt conversation with various vendors; most don’t speak English. I see a lot of antique-looking items from Tibet, old Chinese textiles (gorgeous!), Japanese watercolors, ivory carvings, and rhinocerous horns (ewww) among the most amazing translucent green, white, pink, and yellow jade  treasures.

 

Holiday flower market

A lot of Taiwan’s sights are located in spare spaces: hidden underground, beneath overpasses, in some really unlikely spots. You might easily drive, ride, or walk by them without notice. The Taipei “Holiday” flower and jade markets are no exception. I stumbled onto the flower market when I walked down the wrong side of Jianguo, trying to find the main Taipei Library.

Greenery Galore!

Inside the market, the first thing you notice is the fragrance of a million flowers and flowering plants. There are blossoms of every shape, size, and color. It’s like a wacky kalidiscope image, bursting at the seams. The market stretches farther than I can see and I wander along, simply amazed by it all.  The Taiwanese love their greenery and you can see why – so many options. Bonzai galore, one even taller than me (and that’s saying something!). Water plants (lilies, lotus) for dish gardens and outside fountains. Pots, saucers, rocks, gardening implements and garden furniture. Herbs, fruit and citrus trees, strange insect-eating plants, orchids galore all being misted from above to maintain their health (I guess the intense natural humidty isn’t enough, but I must say the mist feels good). Vendors pass out samples of their teas and various drinks made from herbs, and lots of, well,  I’m not really sure exactly what the ingredients were, but most of it was delish! So many choices but finally I settle on a bunch of sweetheart roses (20 stems for 50NT) for less then 2.00US. Of course the bouquet is beautifully wrapped, the stems inserted into water for the trip home, and then placed into a long plastic bag to protect it on its journey on public transportation.

Bougainvilleas

Library card

Heat was coming off the road in waves; oddly, you can feel it most when a slight breeze kicks up. Luckily I didn’t have to wait long for the 235 to show up on An He and transport me along Heping road to Daan Forest, a green slice of botanical planning. I walk through the “forest” and watch groups of people practice martial arts under the the cool of the trees, families bicycling along the packed clay paths, and one lady playing a haunting melody on her flute, under a gazebo. When I reach Xinyi I realize I’ve gone too far and haven’t seen the library (too-shoe-gwahn). But I have discovered the Flower Market! (I’ll go there later; now I’m focused on finding the library.)

I ask one of the policemen directing walkers across the busy streets. He points back the way I’ve come, on the other side of Jiangao. I’m feeling the heat and humidity descend now, wishing I’d brought a bottle of water. I’m not sure what the library’s address is exactly but I figure it should be easily visible – it’s the main one after all. And there it is, all 11 floors of it. I go inside, present my ARC and within a few minutes receive my very own card. Now to check out the books….

The entrance to Taipei's Main Library

On 4F there is one section of books in English, mainly non-fiction (I select a macaron cookbook, despite not having an actual kitchen) but there are a smattering of fiction options as well. One consideration: anything I select must be lugged around so I pick our several paperbacks and go up to 8F to check out the movies. Maybe I was looking in the wrong area but I found nothing of interest. Oh well, it’s hot inside and I still want to make it back to the flower market…

Drama in the pet store

We were walking along Zhongshao after dinner, on the way to Breeze, when the normal, ambient road noise spiked. Looking around it wasn’t difficult to spot where the cause: something was happening in the pet store. An iguana on the loose? A cat coughing up a hairball? A customer complaining about the price of Iams? Who knows?! What became obvious is that someone wasn’t happy – and they were letting everyone know about it! I could see a stocky man with short dark hair winding back to sock someone – it seemed like that object of his ire was a store employee (wearing an “official” smock). Several other people were attempting to hold him back. Then the altertercation spilled out onto the sidewalk with the angry man chasing the other man Next,  they were down ono the ground (sidewalk actually) and at least half a dozen bystanders had their cell phones out. Literally within 2 minutes, the cops showed up: 4 on scooter and 4 in two cars, all with lights and sirens. What excitement! A crowd gathered to watch. We had a great view point from across the street. Instead of cuffing or tasing anyone, the cops surrounded the angry man and his nemesis. No guns were drawn; I’m not sure the cops here even carry. And then they LISTENED to what each person was saying. What a concept! Even from a distance it was obvious that the angry man was calming down. After a few minutes the crowd began to disperse; talk can be boring when drama is expected. And just like that, the soothing sounds of another evening in Taipei enveloped the shoppers…

Humidity 1, Me 0

I give!  I’m crying “uncle”! Enough is enough! I cannot stand the humidity one second longer! So…I made an appointment and had my hair cut REALLy short! Halle Berry I said and after some internet searches by the stylists (it took three) the cutting began. An hour later, a lot more of my hair was on the floor than on my head. But boy did it feel a whole lot cooler. I love it! It takes no time at all to  style in the mornings and I especially love that I only paid 600NT (20US) for the cut, shampoo (which was essentially a 15-minute scalp massage with some lovely lavender-infused Paul Mitchell product), and blow dry. I’ll post a pic soon!

A valuable lesson

None of the clothes I brought with me fit anymore. After a month in Taiwan, my pants were a bit looser, so I used the one belt I’d brought to keep them up. Now it’s time. Time to run the dreaded gauntlet of clothing stores where there is nothing in my size! So, I’ll go find a new pair of pants. Definitely easier said than done. I’ve checked Costco (DKNY and Calvin Klein in size 0-8, $35 – $50 US). Next,  Sogo department store where  I actually found several options in a size that fits (CKs for almost 200 USD – yikes – and some equally spendy brands I’ve never heard of). I checked the stores on Nanjing on the way to the MRT. Nada. I felt like I’d walked into the petite department of EVERY store!

On the way to Wellcome to do grocery shopping, I see a clothing store and, ever hopeful, I stop in. Hey, this looks promising. The prices aren’t horrendous and the clothes look stylish. None of the staff speak English. Really? (I still find this odd, that adults in a progressive society don’t know even the basics of the language most parents here insist that their children learn.) It’s frustrating too because my Chinese is rudimentary at best (Lady, that one, how many money?). So, I browse the selection. The sales ladies have a unique method of telling whether pants will fit: they hold them up to a person’s NECK and drape the waist band around. If the ends meet behind the neck, it’s a possible fit. Hmmm….so I try a pair on and they are okay. Too bad there’s no lycra in the content and that they’re made in China.

On the way back from shopping I decide, what the heck, I’m losing weight so it won’t be long before the pants are a more comfortable fit plus they are on SALE. I buy them. Then the fun starts!

This morning, I try the pants (khaki capris with a black belt) on again, at home, and even though they fit, they aren’t that comfortable. Hang onto ’em or return ’em? By this afternoon, I decide to return ’em. No big deal, right? Walk around the corner, hand the pants + receipt to the mono-lingual sales staff, smile and walk away pantless. WRONG.

The staff acts like they don’t understand me (ok, probably technically true, but it can’t be the first time someone has returned something). The THREE sales ladies and one salesman speak among themselves while I try to discern what is being said. Then SL1 makes a phone call. To a manager to authorize a low value return? Apparently she has a friend whose English skills exist. I speak with someone on the phone. I’m told that they cannot do a return on a sales item. (Everything in the store is on sale.) I’m told that I must do an exchange (they don’t do gift certificates) and I must do it TODAY. The pants I have are their “largest” size (a US size 10, which for my height is SMALL) so exchanging for another pair won’t work. There are exactly 3, count ’em 3 t-shirts in the store in size 40 (the largest read:”my” size) and none of them appeal to me. In the meantime I call a friend of mine who speaks fluent Chinese and ask her to tell the sales staff I am not pleased. SL1 calls her friend who then explains that, oh wait, yes, I can do a return. SL2, 3 (and now 4) gather ’round smiling and saying sorry.

So, what did I learn? Lesson 1: don’t EVER buy anything that doesn’t fit me the way I want it to it. Lesson 2: don’t shop any establishment that doesn’t have at least one English-speaking sales person. ‘Nuff said?

National obsession

So far, I haven’t been able to identify one.  No national sports teams. No sports team colors being worn. No raucous debates and liquor-fueled bar brawls over a game score.  I hear tell about monster mah-jong games but have yet to witness (or participate in) one. If there is a common thread running through Taiwan society, I’d say it’s the constant need to SHOP! There are day markets, flower markets, flea markets (wish I could find these), and night markets. There are malls in every district., stores on every street and alleys, too. And the stores are open late 7 days a week.  Taiwan is a night owl’s shopper’s mecca.

Last night I found myself at the Momo mall (Nanjing and Tunhua)  after getting an IKEA receipt stamped with a tax ID for an expense report. To give you an idea of the mall’s size, even though IKEA  is HUGE, it occupies the bottom two floors of only the eastern quadrant of the mall! After getting a 10NT soft serve ice cream cone, I took the elevator up to the 5th floor (the building has 15) to look around Working House (a larger selection of house wares and decorative items than the one down the street from me) and down to 4F, Piin, to look at furniture and textiles.  While in Piin, I meet  someone else who speaks English – this is really a rarity! It turns out, she’s the wife of a China Air pilot based in Taiwan. We got to talking and she told me there are are lots of LIBRARIES here (!) and offered to send me the information about the main branch. Sounds like I’ve got next week’s adventure lined up…

Day market

I’ve been promising myself to brave the heat and humidity to visit the day market, in the same space occupied by the night market (go figure)! The day market is where you’ll find fresh produce of every shape, color, and size,  plus flowers and “lucky” bamboo – it’s everywhere, fish and seafood, meats (ugh), and rice and grains.  (At night, you’ll only find cooked/prepared foods.) I ended up with fresh grapevines (they smell strange but taste wonderful in a salad or stir-fried), basil, gold kiwi, honeybells (tangelos I think), guava (bah-luh) , both pink and white flesh ( they smell heavenly), and white roses with greenery – all for under 500NT (16.00 US).

Guava and flowers from the Day Market

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As for me, I will take the road less travelled…