Sri Lanka day 3

I’ve got oodles of details on my travels this past week on the land which has many ways to part foreigners from their money as it does giant Buddha statues! I’ve also got photos you’re sure to enjoy. Stay tuned…

Sri Lanka day 2

When did “tips” stop meaning “to insure prompt service” and come to mean “if we so much as look at you, we will ask for a tip”?

I will reserve judgement until I’ve been here longer than a day but I quickly learned that Sri Lankans don’t do much out of the kindness of their heart. Want someone to take your photo? Pay up. Need to take your shoes off at a temple site? It will cost you. Someone hands you a flower to put on an alter? Or a candle to light? Yup, more money. Sure it’s only a little here and there but it adds up! Maybe I’ve just been spoiled by Taiwan and their excellent customer service and (mostly) no tipping policy.

Today started with a trip to the Pinnawalla Elephant Orphanage. At breakfast I could see elephants downriver and after paying 2000 rupees to get into Pinnawalla, I was surprised at how many elephant orphans they care for. I do rather have an issue with using animals as a means of income: their poo is turned into paper (ok, good recycling) but then I guess that’s the whole of any zoo. I didn’t like seeing any of the animals chained up but I did enjoy the 10am elephant parade down to the river.

The Pinnawalla orphans

The Pinnawalla orphans

Next was the poo paper tour. Some clever person found a way to make money off of elephant dung. Yup, you guessed it, they make paper from the fiber. Next up: a fortune teller who told me I am generous and will live to 96. I think he told me his minimum tip was 500 rupees…sigh. Are you getting the idea? (Some amazing photos to follow once I figure out how to access them from my iPad, which has been remarkably easy to carry.)

Pucker up, buttercup

Pucker up, buttercup

Sri Lanka day 1

Am using the wifi in the lobby of the Palm Garden Village Hotel to write this. I arrived without incident yesterday and things were off to a promising start. My luggage indeed was transferred from China Air to Srilankan Air, my driver/guide was waiting for me with water and sandwiches prepared by his wife – thoughtful. And then came the Pinnawalla Elephant Hotel (and I use the word lightly). After a long day of travel, I had to schlepp my bags up literally 6 flights of stairs to a room with no lights, a sheet for a blanket, and a bathroom that was just plain scary. I figured out how to use a newly-purchased adaptor to recharge my cell phone and turned the AC off. I fell asleep to the sound of the Maoya river and woke up early to meet my guide at breakfast (read white toast, marmalade, and scrambled eggs that were…I forgot them already). I found out later that they had no place for my guide to sleep. Then came my first lesson about Sri Lanka: it’s ALL about money. I’ll go into more detail later, but suffice it to say, not the best first impression for a country that needs all the good press it can get.

Maoya River

Maoya River

My tattoo evolution

30+ years ago, I lost a bet and, while stationed in Denver, CO, I had a small tattoo inked on my back: a butterfly. (I think I paid 35.00 for it) Over the years, I almost forgot about it (except when I was swimming and someone would tell me that I had a bug on my back). In Tacoma, decades later, I had it re-colorized. (65.00) Then, I began to wonder: is one enough? How many tattoos are too much? In New Orleans, I had a small black rose tattoo’d on my thigh. (~120.00 and it hurt like a ….well it hurt). No, I wasn’t drinking and yes, I would recommend getting a large tattoo to begin with! In 2005, I was in NYC with a friend and my youngest daughter for my birthday. As a present, they chipped in to purchase a “tramp stamp” tattoo for me: my star sign (200.00). Then, about 2 years ago, I realized that my original tattoo had “melted” and no longer looked recognizable. So….I decided to have it covered up. Next came a larger aqua chrysathemum which I just love! (200.00) Then…in July, my kidney donor died (of a heart attack, with my kidney still working). In memory, I had a Taiwanese artist create a red rose memorial to add to the flower already on my back. And finally, last December, Mom died suddenly. In her memory I had a lovely little hummingbird and heart added to my growing body art collection. See what you think of it….

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“The hummingbird symbolizes many different concepts. Because of its speed, the hummingbird is known as a messenger and stopper of time. It is also a symbol of love, joy, and beauty. The hummingbird is also able to fly backwards, teaching us that we can look back on our past.”

Year of the Snake

It’s nearly Chinese New Year, that time of year when Taiwanese from all over the world return to their island home to celebrate the most important traditional holiday with their families. The decoration vendors are springing up all over the roadsides and alleys, their booths displaying bright red and gold items of every size and shape. CNY is supposed to mark the end of Winter but this year we’ve really had a super mild season. The sun’s been out for a couple of weeks now, with temperatures ranging from 16 to 23 degrees celsius. Last winter I had no cold-weather clothing and boy, was it cold! This year, I was prepared (hats, scarves, gloves, coats) so yeah, of course we have warm weather!

For the foreigners (and most everyone) CNY means a vacation – 9 days this year (Feb. 8 – 17), by government decree! And, it means food – lots of it – and money and gifts. The atmosphere is festive: my building lobby is all decorated up with red lanterns, lights, and golden snake images, and each floor still has its Christmas decorations out. Our annual Spring party will be held the week after CNY and folks are excited to see what sort of prizes (and cash) they could win.

I’ll be heading to Sri Lanka for 2 weeks to tour the island and learn to cook some Sri Lankan foods. I have my own personal guide/chauffeur: http://www.toursinsrilankabathiya.com/tour1.htm. The weather there is supposed to be HOT (34 degrees C); I’m hoping to come back with, at the very least, a tan and some amazing photos. I also want to shop for gems (spinel, sapphire, and zircon), batik cloth, and spices! My Asian adventure continues…Xin nian kuai le!

And the crazy signs continue…

Everywhere you look in Taiwan, there are signs. Some of them in Chinese only, some of them accurately (more or less) translated, and my favorite: those with a few language gaffes.

A new lounge, off of Dunhua S. Rd.

A new lounge, off of Dunhua S. Rd.

I wonder what a mam moth is? A new winged night creature? Or did they mean mammoth? As in big and extinct? If I owned a lounge, I’m not sure I’d want to advertise “dead” whiskey. Does it kill you? Does it contain inert matter?

At the unloading zone of the National Palace Museum

At the unloading zone of the National Palace Museum

Uh, so is this the bus for overweight foreigners?

At a food stand on Fuxing, near Xinyi

At a food stand on Fuxing, near Xinyi

Wow, this must be really old rice! Are the leaves from the paleolithic age as well?

It always amazes me that folks don’t verify their translated messages with a native English speaker…

Yingge redux

One of my favorite little towns near Taipei City is the pottery town, Yingge. This time, instead of meeting up with friends at Taipei Main Station (it’s always a bit nervewracking to figure out where to go – there are at least 4 different levels with crowds of people scurrying to and fro on each), we decided to meet at Songshan TRA (train) station and ride the express train to Yingge. Ahhhh, so much easier. I took a taxi to the station and when I told the driver “Wo qu Songshan huochizhan” (I go Songshan train station) he just looked at me. I repeated the phrase several times, adding in the name of the street. Apparently my “accent” was off but eventually, after getting out Google maps he understood. Songshan wasn’t crowded on a Sunday morning. I bought my ticket, asked an attendant which track goes to Yingge and soon we had a nice seat and a quick, pleasant journey. At Yingge station, there are two exits, each leading to a different street. This time we took the street we thought lead to the Pottery Museum and after a few turns down narrow lanes, found ourselves in the middle of a field of giant pottery pieces that looked as if it had been dropped from the sky and had become embedded in the ground.

Look out for falling plates!

Look out for falling plates!

What a cool concept!

What a cool concept!

Back in Taiwan

Dad and I

Dad and I

I missed both NYE and any New Year celebration; I was in-flight, on my way back from the US (my flight left at 2:30pm on the 31st and arrived in TPE at 9:15 pm on the 1st). I heard that the 101 fireworks show this year was lovely. Watch it here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8mP39wS_FxQ .

After the stress and family drama of my Mom’s death, vigil, and funeral, it was a relief to be able to spend some alone time with my Dad, who is working his way through the grieving process. Many thanks to everyone who expressed condolences, both on- and offline. Mom always made the holiday season special for the family so it was understandable when Dad didn’t want to spend it in their home. Instead, we went north to visit his sister and having a relaxing, if somewhat subdued, Christmas. I really have to admire my Dad for hanging in there, especially since he’s also dealing with his own health issues.

Sad news

Today, my Mom died.

She had suffered a massive stroke nearly 2 weeks ago and fought the good fight, but never really regained consciousness. She received excellent care at Cedars-Sinai, but in the end, her body simply gave out. Dad was right there so she didn’t die alone. My sisters raced back to say their goodbyes. I will be there this weekend. I don’t know any details of the funeral; I’m sure those will be made available shortly. Still processing it all…

Mom and I

2011 – Mom and I

UPDATE: In talking with my Dad, he indicated that there would be a service on Wednesday evening and Mass on Thursday. I will add more details as arrangements are finalized.

More crazy signs…

Here we go again! They make it soooo easy.

At the Museum of Modern Art:

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I think the writers meant well, but this poor map isn’t going anywhere.

At the Renai and Dunhua circle advertising a recent event:

I guess the quickest way to get the party started is to leave the verbs at home!

I guess the quickest way to get the party started is to leave the verbs at home!

On the MRT; I know they meant well but…

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One never knows when a band of ill-fitting pants might attack!

For those who love to drink and drive legally:

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Mmmm, love me some beer-flavored chocolate bars. Maybe someone got confused about which type of bars these were associated with?

See what I mean?

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As for me, I will take the road less travelled…