World’s most expensive coffee

You might look at cat poo in a different light after tasting what is undeniably the most expensive cuppa joe in the world! You have probably heard of it and this weekend, I and some friends, got to try it at Taipei’s Tea, Coffee, and Wine Expo. While most coffee dealers were doling out their wares for free, the folks who create Kopi Luwak typically charge 680NT (nearly 20USD) for a thimble-sized taste. Luckily, for this event, it only cost us 100NT, or about half the cost of the tallest Starbucks offering.

This unusual java originates on the island of Java and Sumatra (Indonesia), home to a civit-like animal: the luwak, whose favorite meal is ripe red coffee “cherries”. Down the hatch they go, and of course you know where they end up. After being collected and sanitized, they are roasted and ground, to be enjoyed by coffee connoisseurs.

A caffeinated afternoon!

A caffeinated afternoon!

Was it worth the price? Yes – if only to say we’d tried it. Would I pay 100USD for 200grams of the stuff? Uh…no.

 

Murder at the Jianguo Jade Market

I headed down Xinyi on the 22 to the Jianguo markets (crafts, flowers, jade).  I was meeting my friend Najia and wanted to shop for gems – or at least see what was available. The jade market is so large (at least 3 city blocks long) that we decided to start on the east side and work our way up and back on each section, making our way to the other side. I could see vendor after vendor with jade, jade, and more jade. Finally one vendor pointed out one of his neighbors, saying that she sold gems. Then suddenly it seemed that many vendors were packing up their booths (and it was only 1pm). At the night markets this happens when the police show up to check vendor permits; those without permits cover up their booths and wheel them away to avoid a fine. We saw police officers and thought that was happening here too. The gem vendor tried to be polite while she was throwing items into boxes, asking us to come back next week and pointing to the middle section of the market, one aisle from hers.

We still didn’t get it. The police tape should have been our first clue. And then we saw it and I wish we hadn’t.

A large pool of blood spreading over the floor. A forensics officer taking photos. Thankfully there was no body but it was obvious that something dire had occurred. We moved away and asked several of the nearby vendors, what had happened. One made a slashing motion across his throat. Suicide? Apparently not. A vendor at one of the booths nearest the scene said “fight” and made the same slashing motion. There wasn’t a lot of emotion expressed. A person had just been killed, in broad daylight, in a crowded market and no one  screamed, no one was crying, no one seemed in shock. (Violent crime is definitely not the norm in Taipei but I could find nothing in the news about this incident.)

As we moved further away from the crime scene, it seemed that most of the vendors had heard about the killing but again, it was more of the British stiff upper lip reaction than outrage or horror. We did a little more window shopping but in truth, it was difficult to concentrate. I doubt I will ever look at the jade market in the same way again. RIP unknown victim.

 

Bird Street

Some feathered friends

If you’re in the market for a feathered friend, or simply want to take a colorful journey to a historic section of Taipei, consider visiting “Bird Street” in the Wanhua district, near the Longshan Temple. Just a few minutes’ walk from the Longshan Temple MRT station (turn left out of exit 3 and stay on Heping West Road). Within 10 minutes, you’ll hear the birdsong and see the many vendors. Smaller birds (parakeets, finches, sparrows) are typically displayed in traditional bamboo cages. The larger birds (parrots, lorikeets, conures, macaws, cockatiels, and cockatoos) are displayed on stands on the sidewalk, tethered so that they won’t take off (it’s also safer for passersby). If you’re taking children, please remind them not to reach out to touch the birds on stands; the “little” beaks and talons on hook bills are surprising sharp. Instead, ask the shop owner to hold a bird that’s safe to pet. It’s amazing watching and listening to them all.

If you want to purchase a winged companion, do your homework first so that you’ll know which type of bird to look for. Some are known for being noisy, others are relatively quiet. Some can be taught to talk and do tricks, others are more decorative. Remember, parrots have long (up to 35 years) lifespans and get very attached to their owners. Prices vary widely – from several hundred NT for a tiny finch to tens of thousands for a macaw – so take your time and comparison shop. The shop owners I spoke with were very knowledgeable about their offerings, can answer many of your questions, and were very willing to make recommendations based on what you’re looking for. Happy bird watching!

Halloween 2012

Last year I didn’t do much for Halloween. This year, I was determined to find something to create a costume out of. As I wandered the neighborhood night market I spied a wonderful headdress, collar, and cuff from Bali. I tried them on and then asked the price. Yikes, they were asking more than 10,000NT (325 USD). Tai gui (too expensive)! Thinking they were quoting me the “rich foreigner” price I had a local friend go in to inquire about the price. The same. Maybe a trip to Indonesia was in order. Found one, including airfare, for around 9000NT but the kicker: the headdress and accessories are still expensive to purchase. What to do? I waited until the evening of the 30th and then went to talk with the shop owner. After some spirited negotiations, I walked out with all of the items + a stand for the headdress + extra cuff + gold earrings for 8000NT.

Next, I studied Balinese dancer make up and movements, painted some “witchy” nails gold, selected some sandals, and ironed one of my sarees. The result?

Bali Dancer

 

Needless to say the costume caused quite a stir both to and from work, and in the office.  Success!

Here’s why I love Taipei

At lunchtime (we get 1.5 hours) I went to the Taiwan University of Education gym (a short walk away, new, clean, small) and worked out for 35 minutes (40NT), walked 2 blocks across Fuxing to a vegetarian buffet for lunch (80NT), then down Heping to Cama Coffee for a plum vinegar (40NT), and to I-Mei for a soft serve ice cream (20NT – I have to reward myself somehow for all that sweat), and back to the office on Dunhua with 10 minutes to spare (even with waiting for the elevator). Total cost: 180NT (6.16USD at today’s exchange rate)!

Turtle Island

One of the joys of living in Taiwan is the myriad of options for taking day trips, depending on what sort of activities appeal to you. At work, a small amount is deducted from our pay each month as a contribution to our Welfare committee, which uses that money to subsidize these trips. Recently, I signed up for a trip to Turtle Island (named for its shape). Because the island was a former military installation, groups must “apply” for landing permits. It took us several tries before we obtained the permit.

We met in front of our work building, early on a Saturday morning, to board a tour bus. Less than an hour later, we were in Yilan harbor.

Turtle Island viewed from Lanyang Museum

We had an hour to wait for the cruise so a group of us decided to hike a short distance to the Lanyang  museum. It’s a modern-design building with angular walls and floor-to-ceiling windows that afford visitors a view of the harbor and the local landscape.

Lanyang Museum

The museum tells the story of Yilan’s history in a colorful and interesting way and is meant to instill pride in the local customs and traditions; I’m sure it’s a big hit with the area’s schoolteachers.

Yilan fisherman

All too soon, it was time to board the ship: we had to produce ID cards and health insurance information. On-board, we were all required to wear life vests and off we went, in search of whales and dolphins that are said to inhibit these waters. The water was choppy, so it was easy to get seasick. Keeping an eye out for the sealife helped with the rough motion of the ocean. We saw lots of dolphins but no whales. Unlike other oceans, the color of the water really is deep aqua blue, making it easy to see where the geo-thermal hot springs come up (look for bubbles and water that is light aqua).

Turtle Island from the ship – the head is on the left

Once at the Turtle Island wharf, we were told “no take picture” until after we were well off the dock and at the visitor’s center (read: ice cream and souvenir shop).

Oops, guess I wasn’t paying attention to the instructions

After a refreshment break, we started walking. I should point out that it was hot and humid so our pace was a little slower.

Sightseeing options on Turtle Island

We walked past the remnants of a temple – the island had once been home to a village before it was conscripted by the military -around a lovely lake to where a 20-foot tall female buddha statue had more recently been erected.

Beautiful Buddha, off in the distance

Then, we headed inside the island, through tunnels carved by the military.

One of many tunnels on the island

We came out on the edge of the island to view the guns and gun portals.

The gunner’s view

(Remember, mainland China is only 120 miles offshore.) We were told the island is no longer used by the military but one has to wonder….

Gun portals as seen from the ocean

Cutting for Stone

I joined a book club earlier this year, through the Community Services Center (they meet in the evenings – yeah!), and this month we read Cutting for Stone by Abraham Verghese. It’s a semi-autobiographical account of a young man (a twin) growing up in Ethiopia, who later goes on to become a respected doctor (and professor at Stanford University!) in America. I won’t spoil it for you by giving away any details but it was definitely a fascinating look into another culture.

As a writer, I’m always interested in what inspires others to write. I decided to learn more about Dr. Verghese: www.abrahamverghese.com/biography.asp and I sent the following note:

Dear Dr. Verghese, in preparation for a book club discussion of Cutting for Stone, I read with interest of your current research into bedside manner. Recently (20 months ago) I became a living kidney donor and, because you wrote so beautifully about the twins’ experience in your book, I thought you might be interested in hearing about my donor experience, as it relates to your current scientific focus. If this is the case, I’m happy to relate my story….

And, he wrote back!! How many bestselling authors would take the time to respond to a random note from a complete stranger? He truly must embody the best of humanity!

Crazy Taiwanese signs

Everywhere you look, there are Mandarin characters; you can’t escape them – and no, I don’t mean the people! Every so often, someone has attempted to translate these lovely symbols into English, sometimes with hilarious results! I’ve been collecting samples of these little faux pas for over a year now so allow me to start sharing them with you…

After a long day at work, who couldn’t use a little extra Prozac?

Mmmm, after the Prozac kicks in, I’ll bet this synthetic candy tastes pretty darn good!

I’m not really sure who these snacks are supposed to appeal to….maybe people who want to look good nude?

And if the “nude” pretzels don’t do it for you, you can always try this exotic-flavored popcorn as a treat.

Happy Birthday InterNations!

In the spirit of global cultural exchange, an international organization with a thriving branch here in Taiwan is celebrating its 5th birthday. InterNations is an invitation-only expatriate community present in over 300 cities worldwide. It was designed for “people living and working abroad” to connect with each and with all ʺglobal mindsʺ. Each month, local events are held which bring both expats and locals together in a fun and festive environment. The website: http://www.internations.org/ is a wealth of information for anyone contemplating a move anywhere in the world! Here you’ll find “Expat Guides”, “Expat Magazine”, and links to information and InterNations events held around the globe. In Taipei, we are fortunate to have our very own chapter: http://www.internations.org/taiwan-expats , led by Francis Morris of El Salvador. I met up with Francis recently at a monthly DinnerNations evening held at Kunming Islamic restaurant. (Talk about a mini-UN!) When I arrived I knew only one other person and by the end of the meal, I’d not only made some new friends, we had already planned a get-together for the following weekend!

No, I didn’t get blown away by the storm…

It actually fizzled out, headed away from us, and then changed direction, swooping back by to dump a boatload of rain on us – but not enough wind to qualify for a typhoon day off! Oh well, there’s always next year….

Since then I have been so swamped at work, but never fear, I’ve had some fun adventures I’ll share with you shortly.

 

 

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As for me, I will take the road less travelled…