Everyone is bracing for what the locals call “super” typhoon – meaning super dangerous (winds approaching 100mph and rainfall of biblical proportions) and two of them overlapped, heading straight for us. Wellcome shelves are becoming bare as everyone stocks up on edible provisions – at the same time. It’s due to hit sometime this Thursday, so tomorrow will be crazy busy at work; we won’t be able to make it into the office when the typhoon hits. (This is definitely one of those times I’m glad I’m on the 4th floor and that my apartment’s waterproofing finally got fixed!) Stay tuned, and send dry thoughts our way!
Typhoon Saola
07 Aug 2012 1 Comment
in Taiwan, Travel, Weather Tags: California Pizza Kitchen, movies, Red Robot Labs, Saola, Typhoon, Vieshow, W hotel
We knew it was coming. It was all over the news. By Wednesday afternoon we were told that if she struck, we’d have a day off work on Thursday. At 1755 they told us to vacate the building. I had tickets to see Dark Knight at the Viewshow (vee-shoe) near Taipei City Hall that evening and I wasn’t going to let a little thing like a typhoon stop me! It started to rain as I left work so I took a taxi to the theater complex and met a friend for dinner – California Pizza Kitchen, go figure! After the movie (just as dark as the title implies) I thought I’d find a cab home. Guess everyone else had that same thought as we all got pounded by driving rain and strong winds. I finally gave up on the umbrella and sloshed my way over to the W hotel, to wait in line with everyone else waiting for a cab. By the time I arrived I was literally soaking wet. It was pretty hilarious, although the girls in short skirts and heels couldn’t understand why I was laughing (partly at their weather-inappropriate get ups and partly at my own dripping wet state).
One cool thing about waiting in lines in Taipei: you always meet the most interesting people! This time, I met three people from Hong Kong who told me they were “criminals”! Actually they work for Red Robot Labs on a game called “Life is Crime”! Now I’m literally (and virtually) a “typhoon gurl”!
Tattoo
05 Aug 2012 1 Comment
in Daily Life, Travel Tags: Cidao, Queen, rose, tattoo, tribute
In remembrance of my dear friend Ambrose, I decided to have a local artist create a more lasting momento: a tattoo.
I threw a “Tattoo and Pizza Party” and friends from work brought salad, chicken (for the meat eaters), and cheesecake (I provided the pizza). Afterwards, we walked over to the tattoo parlor adjacent to the Tong Hua night market where “Queen” sketched up some ideas that would fit my current body art (and would complement it and not be readily visible when I wear a t-shirt). After agreeing on a design, a Taiwanese co-worker haggled with Queen over the price. The final cost: 3000NT (<100USD). I love the result; see for yourself!
RIP Ambrose
23 Jul 2012 8 Comments
in Travel
My dear friend, Ambrose Ofuani, has died. We were connected in a way few people are – but let me start at the beginning…
I first met Ambrose 7 years ago when we lived on the same street in Tallahassee. Every morning at 7am I’d see a tall, black man dressed in colorful African clothing walking toward the Parkway. And every every evening at 7pm, he’d be walking back the other way, towards the home he shared with his nephew. One afternoon, I happened to be at home and when I went back to work, there he was, walking. I stopped and offered him a ride and that was the start of our friendship. I learned that he had had a stroke while driving and had spent a year as an in-patient re-learning everything: how to walk, how to talk, how to cook. He spoke of this experience, but not in a negative way. He expressed an obvious frustration for the difficult tasks he had to do in order to master simple skills, but more importantly, he chose to focus on his successes. He was finally able to go back to work but wasn’t able to drive anymore. So twice a day, he’d take the bus to and from work. For the next year and a half while I lived in Tallahassee, I’d ride the bus to work too, and he’d often save me a seat. On the bus, he’d tell me stories. Stories about the various African tribes and some of their rituals (to explain why some of the other bus riders from African nations had scars on their faces). Stories about other bus-travellers. He seemed to have a smile and “Hell-ohh” for everyone. He was a large man, and his personality was large too.
He often referred to himself as a “proud Ibo warrior” and told me about his ancestors and his place in the rankings of his tribe. Even though he wasn’t anywhere near his home continent, I could tell he still felt connected to his family there and to the Niger. Oh, he had stories about Nigeria too! He longed to go back and show his son around. He told me about his days as a soccer coach and it was evident how much he enjoyed teaching and encouraging his teams. I think he thought that one day, he’d play soccer again. And I hoped that for him as well. He told me about his older sister in Africa, who had died from a stroke and how blessed he felt to be living in America, with its medical advances. And when he told me about his son, I could tell how proud he was of Philip, his scholastic and athletic achievements. He told me about his various serious relationships. The woman he married and had no children with and the woman he had a child with and never married. He spoke matter-of-factly and didn’t seem to have any regrets.
He loved to cook. Once he invited me over for dinner and made a special bread made from a purple-ish grain. He showed how to knead it in my hand so that it could be used to soak up gravy. And he laughed when it took me a few tries to get the hang of it. Once he came to my house and fixed a fish dinner – tilapia, telling me that it was the fish mentioned in the Bible story about the miracle of bread and fishes.
Church was important to Ambrose. Maybe not so much for the teachings, but because he loved to give thanks for every little blessing – and he counted most things as blessings. That, and he loved the female attention he got! A tall, dark, handsome man, proud of his heritage, full of confidence and love. Who could resist that? Not I!
After I moved to California, I didn’t stay in touch with Ambrose as I should have but when I returned to the south several years later, we reconnected. That’s when I learned that he’d had what he thought was another stroke. And he told me the story of being on the train, going to Orlando at Christmastime to visit Philip when suddenly he was in medical distress. He was so determined to see his son, he did not want to get off the train to seek help! Then, for added fun, he went into renal failure. As always, there was no trace of anger when he described the round of doctor’s appointments, medication, and altered diet that had become his life, in between working half days for the State. That first time I saw him again after that, I was shocked! The big, strapping man I remembered was now a shell of his former self, physically. I could tell he was struggling. I remember taking him to Carrabelle beach one afternoon. We stopped at Subway (his favorite sandwich place) and had a picnic on the sand. I encouraged him to at least take his shoes off but he told me he couldn’t be in the salt water, that that would counteract some medication he was taking.
I don’t think I really understood how serious his condition was until he went on dialysis. He would tell me about it, especially after the ports had to be surgically implanted in his arm. He told me that it hurt but that the nurses were so kind. And, that it was exhausting. At this point, he was working Monday, Wednesday, and Friday and was in dialysis for hours afterwards. It was painful to see him in pain. And yet, he would talk about the future, about taking his son to Nigeria and playing soccer again. He was always full of hope and optimism. That was one of the many qualities I loved about him.
I’m not sure how the topic came up, but at some point we discovered we were the same blood type. And, having previously done research into kidney donation, I told him that I’d be willing to be tested as a donor. One time we went to see his doctor’s at Shands, me driving down from Georgia, picking Ambrose up, driving to Gainesville. I remember telling his doctors that Ambrose was a great transplant candidate because of his overwhelmingly positive attitude. On the way back to Tallahassee, we stopped at an antiques mall. Oh, he was like a kid in a candy store. I was worried that he was too tired, but he rallied and checked out booth after booth, finally buying an unopened Coke can that had special meaning for him. He was so happy with that purchase.
Then came the day 2 years ago when he was placed on the transplant list. I had already filled out a donor evaluation form and immediately called the Shands transplant coordinator to find out what to do next. After tests, tests, and more tests (none of them fun and most of them done in Gainesville) we got the news: I was a match! I wish I could have been there when Ambrose got the news but I was so excited to be able to finally do something to help that I drove down to Tallahassee to visit Ambrose in the dialysis center. It was a bit daunting to see all those people hooked up to machines and to watch Ambrose wince as they inserted the tubes into his ports. I held his hand throughout that treatment and all I could think of was: only a few more dialysis sessions for Ambrose!
Ambrose could be stubborn (understatement)! I think that is what sustained him through his life’s challenges – that and his genuine love of all people. He had a big heart and loved to laugh. I saw Ambrose the morning of the transplant surgery and he was in good spirits. Afterwards, people called me a hero. I don’t see it that way. I had a friend who was dying and I could do something about it.
I saw Ambrose when I was back in the US this past February. I could tell he was struggling but he always seemed to pull through. I did not know when we hugged goodbye that that was the last time I’d see him.
Last week, before I knew of his death, he came to me a dream. Not the Ambrose struggling to breathe and barely able to walk, but a younger Ambrose, with his jolly smiling face. I don’t remember exactly what he said, but I woke up smiling, at peace. And I think that’s exactly what he’d want for all of us – to know that he is in a better place. I’ll miss you my dear friend but I’ll smile when I remember how much vitality and joy and love you brought into our lives. Until we meet again…
One year in Taiwan
24 Jun 2012 4 Comments
in Daily Life, Travel Tags: 7-11, customer service, MRT, UniGlo
I’ve officially been in Taiwan for one year! In that time, I have had many adventures, made some new friends – and here’s what I’ve learned:
- the Taiwanese are a happy, friendly, patient people; they will wait in orderly lines (for elevators, to check out, at the MRT)
- if you at least attempt to speak Chinese, they will attempt to speak English
- the Taiwanese love art – painting, sculptures, and colorful signs are EVERYWHERE
- there are two prices: the foreigners-who-don’t-bargain price and the locals-I-will-bargain-for-EVERYTHING-EVERYWHERE price
- it is safe to walk home alone after midnight
- many stores and shops and foot massage places are open late or 24/7
- the Taiwanese are a generally conservative people, yet you’ll see giant billboards advertising (very) skimpy lingerie, girls with super short skirts, and “betel nut” girls in bikinis selling their wares (I mean the narcotic nuts)
- the few foreigners you see on the street either pretend you don’t exist and walk on by or become your best friends
- if you are a “normal” size (not a “tiny” person) you’ll have trouble finding clothing here (size 8.5 is the largest shoe size available for women)
- foreign (European and American) goods are vastly overpriced (I once spent 6000NT/200USD on a pair of CK jeans)
- thank goodness for UniGlo – I was actually able to find some reasonably-priced, quality clothing
- when they say “rainy season” they mean it!
- most people eat out for all meals (they don’t have actual kitchens here), and the food is relatively cheap (relative to the wages that is)
- having a clothes dryer is a luxury few can afford
- trash must be taken to the garbage truck in official blue bags
- taking public transportation isn’t so scary anymore (I can ask directions and understand the answer!)
- 30 verbs
- Google Translate and 7-11 are a godsend!
- Good customer service is a given, as is no tipping!
Earthquakes, typhoons, and floods – oh my!
13 Jun 2012 2 Comments
in Daily Life, Taiwan Tags: earthquake, flood, Typhoon
This week started off with a bang – literally! At 5am I was awoken by the building shaking and swaying and the sounds of, well of a 6.0 earthquake! http://earthquake.usgs.gov/earthquakes/recenteqsww/Quakes/usb000absf.php
It lasted about a minute but seemed longer. And all week, we’ve had after-shocks and a few more tremblers. (You haven’t lived until you’ve experienced a ‘quake on the top floor of a 20-story building.) I’m told this is normal for this region: I’ve experienced more earth-shaking in this past week than in the past year! Maybe there’s an earthquake “season”?
Then of course, on Monday, at 2am, the torrential rains started. And I mean TORRENTIAL! So much so that suddenly, my outside wall was leaking water – and “little Lake Tong Hua” was forming in my bedrooms. Needless to say, it was not a restful night. Between the sheets of driving rain and the howling wind, they cancelled work – of course only after I’d arrived. LOL
Taipei graffiti
13 Jun 2012 Leave a comment
in Culture, Taiwan Tags: graffiti
when you think of graffiti, you probably think of young thug taggers doing their dirty deeds on freeway overpasses while no one is looking. well, think again! in Taipei, art is everywhere and graffiti takes a decidedly upbeat turn. check out what i saw recently on a boarded up street-level business:
it made me smile when i realized that the positive message applies to us all!
“Uncle” Stone
13 Jun 2012 Leave a comment
in Culture, Daily Life, Taiwan Tags: art, folk art, hope, minature art, painted rocks, plenty, rice, rocks, stones
outside Eslite (the 24-hour one, on Dunhua) there are always vendors (unofficial and ones that are licensed), their wares spread out on blankets. usually it’s just umbrellas and sunglasses (probably from China) and clothing only a tiny person could fit into. this one time though, i saw something that made me stop and look. rocks. painted rocks to be more precise, a wizened old man selling them. several people stood around looking at them (and i was tired and wanted to buy book 2 in the Hunger Games series) so i hurried on past, thinking he’d still be there when i came out. (he wasn’t.) darn!
then, to my great surprise and joy – he was there again this week (when a co-worker and i came out of Eslite after getting some vegetarian dinner at the downstairs buffet).
after a brief conversation we learned that the artist had once been a social worker and teacher and, while looking for something to paint that couldn’t be crushed by little hands, came up with the idea of painting rocks with icons and patterns that have special meanings. I chose white dandelions on a white background signifying hope (and who can’t use that these days?). So enchanted with my little purchase, I went back a few days later and found “Uncle” Stone again and this time selected a classic design of rice, which is intended to mean “having plenty”. (well we’ve sure had plenty of earthquakes this week!)
Tax time in Taiwan
23 May 2012 Leave a comment
in Daily Life, Taipei, Travel Tags: income tax, taxes
Every year in May, everyone living and working in Taiwan makes their way to the closest district tax office (no appointment needed and most work places give you half-a-day off for this purpose).
I went before lunch time; walking the Daan MRT, changing trains at Zhongxiao Fuxing, and getting out at 4 stops later at Ximen. I exited at exit 6, walked 10 minutes (not sure which direction) and there was the tax administration building.
As you walk in, the signs are very clearly marked, so that foreigners know where to go, and in a large room, several friendly interns looked at the forms mailed out by the government months ago and helped me fill out a one-sided form. Then, they bundled everything up neatly and pointed me towards a bank of desks where I had to wait about 20 minutes until my number was called. The senior clerk then checked the work of the interns, making additional computations in red on the form, and asked me to produce my passport and work contract. Oops, no one told me I would need those. So, back home again, got the items and back to the tax office. Another short wait and, voila! My taxes are done and I’m getting a refund. Yeah! Simple and sane. Wow, what a concept.







